Skagit County Siding
Composite Decking · Skagit County, WA

March Point Composite Decking: Built for Salt Air & Rain

Home › March Point Composite Decking: Built for Salt Air & Rain
25 Years in Business2,000+ ProjectsLicensed & InsuredFree EstimatesServing Skagit County & Skagit County

Decking on a Skagit County Peninsula Is a Different Job

March Point sits out on the water — bordered by bay on multiple sides, exposed to wind off the Sound and salt-laden air that drifts inland with almost every tide change. That's a very different environment than a deck build ten miles inland in the Skagit Valley. Salt air accelerates corrosion on fasteners and hardware, driving rain gets pushed sideways into ledger boards and railing posts, and the long gray stretch of fall through spring keeps every horizontal surface damp long enough for moss and algae to take hold. A deck built to a generic spec sheet doesn't account for any of that. A deck built for March Point does.

This page is about one thing: composite decking, done right, for homes in and around March Point. Not a general decking overview — the specific decisions that matter when your build site is this close to salt water.

Why Composite Makes Sense Here

Composite decking is a blend of wood fiber and plastic, usually finished with a protective cap layer. We recommend it often in this part of Skagit County for a simple reason: it doesn't feed the same cycle of rot, splinter, and re-stain that wood decking does out here. It won't absorb moisture the way real wood does, it resists the freeze-thaw swelling that follows a wet winter, and a quality capped board won't need annual sealing to hold up against salt exposure.

That doesn't mean composite is maintenance-free — no decking material is, especially this close to the water. It means the maintenance shifts from structural upkeep (sanding, sealing, replacing rotted boards) to surface care (rinsing off salt film, keeping moss from getting a foothold). For most homeowners here, that trade is worth it.

Where Wood Still Makes Sense

We're not going to tell you composite is right for every situation. If you want a specific reclaimed or old-growth look, or you're working with a tight budget for a small deck you're prepared to maintain, cedar or another wood species is still a legitimate option — we install both. The honest answer is that composite earns its higher upfront cost through lower long-term maintenance in exactly the kind of marine climate March Point has.

What the Climate Actually Does to a Deck Here

It helps to understand the specific ways this location works against a deck over time:

  • Salt air corrodes uncoated or low-grade fasteners, hinges, and railing hardware faster than it would inland — this is the single biggest reason we spec stainless or coated fasteners on waterfront builds.
  • Driving rain off the water tends to hit decks at an angle, which means ledger boards, house-side flashing, and post bases take on more water than a sheltered inland deck ever would.
  • Moss and algae establish quickly on any surface that stays damp through Skagit County's long wet season, and they're not just cosmetic — a mossy deck surface gets slick and dangerous underfoot.
  • Wind off the bay puts real load on railings and any pergola or cover structure attached to the deck.

None of these are reasons to avoid building a deck at March Point — they're just the reasons the details of the build matter more here than they would somewhere sheltered.

What a Correct Composite Deck Build Involves

A composite deck is only as good as what's underneath it. The boards themselves resist moisture well, but the substructure and connection points are where a lot of decks — composite or wood — actually fail. Here's what we treat as non-negotiable on every build in this area:

Framing and Substructure

Pressure-treated or naturally durable framing lumber, joist tape over every joist top to keep water from wicking into the wood beneath the decking boards, and joist spacing tightened up from standard spec when we're using composite — composite boards typically need closer joist spacing than wood to avoid sagging over time.

Fasteners and Hardware

Stainless steel or marine-grade coated fasteners throughout, not standard galvanized. In a salt-air environment, this is the difference between hardware that lasts the life of the deck and hardware that starts showing rust streaks within a couple of seasons.

Ledger Attachment and Flashing

Where the deck ties into the house, correct flashing is what keeps driving rain from working its way behind the siding and into the wall assembly. This is one of the most common shortcuts we see on older or DIY builds, and it's one of the most expensive things to fix after the fact.

Ventilation Underneath

Airflow under the deck keeps the substructure drying out between rain events instead of sitting damp. On low-clearance decks close to grade, this often means grading or venting details that a standard build wouldn't bother with.

Composite vs. Other Decking Materials

MaterialUpfront CostMaintenancePerformance Near Salt Water
Wood (cedar, treated pine)LowerAnnual sealing/staining recommendedAbsorbs moisture; needs consistent upkeep to resist rot
Uncapped compositeMidOccasional cleaningCan absorb some moisture at cut ends; less protected than capped
Capped compositeMid-HighRinse/clean periodicallyBest moisture and stain resistance of the composite options
PVC deckingHighestLowFully synthetic, very moisture-resistant, different look/feel underfoot

For most March Point homes, capped composite is the sweet spot — meaningfully better moisture resistance than uncapped boards without the higher cost and different feel of full PVC.

Cost Factors on a Composite Deck Build

We don't quote prices without seeing the site, but these are the factors that actually move the number on a composite deck build here:

FactorWhy It Matters
Square footageStraightforward driver of material and labor cost
Height off gradeTaller decks need more substructure, railings, and often stairs
Board and hardware gradeCapped composite and stainless fasteners cost more than base-grade options but hold up better in salt air
Substructure conditionReplacing rotted or undersized existing framing adds cost but is not optional if it's compromised
Railings and featuresCustom railings, built-in seating, or stairs add labor and material
Site accessWaterfront and sloped lots can complicate material delivery and staging

Maintaining a Composite Deck in a Marine Climate

Composite cuts down on maintenance, it doesn't eliminate it — especially this close to the water. A simple seasonal routine keeps a March Point deck looking and performing the way it should:

  • Rinse the deck surface periodically to clear salt film, especially after storms with onshore wind
  • Sweep debris out of board gaps before it traps moisture and feeds moss growth
  • Address moss or algae early with a mild cleaner made for composite — don't let it establish through a full wet season
  • Check railing posts and stair connections once a year for any hardware showing early corrosion
  • Keep gutters and downspouts near the deck clear so runoff isn't dumping directly onto deck boards or framing
  • Avoid pressure-washing at close range or high PSI, which can damage the cap layer on composite boards

Our Process, Start to Finish

  1. On-site walkthrough. We look at your existing structure (if there is one), grade, sun/wind exposure, and how close you are to the water, then talk through what you actually want from the space.
  2. Honest scope and estimate. You get a clear breakdown of what's being replaced, what materials we're recommending and why, and a real cost range — not a lowball number that grows once work starts.
  3. Tear-out and structural assessment. If there's an existing deck, we check the framing before covering anything back up. Hidden rot doesn't get boarded over.
  4. Build to spec. Joist tape, correct spacing, stainless or coated fasteners, proper ledger flashing, and ventilation — every time, not as an upsell.
  5. Final walkthrough. We go over the finished deck with you, including basic care so it holds up through Skagit County's wet months.

Why It Matters That We Already Work in This Area

A crew that mostly builds decks inland can still do competent work, but they're often making decisions on the fly the first time they hit a waterfront site — guessing at fastener grade, treating flashing as optional, underestimating what the wind load on a railing needs to be. A crew that already works March Point and the surrounding Skagit County waterfront isn't guessing. We know what this specific stretch of coastline does to a deck over five, ten, fifteen years, and we build accordingly from the first board.

If you're planning a new composite deck or replacing an aging one at March Point, we're glad to come take a look, walk the site with you, and put together a straightforward, no-pressure estimate — no obligation, just an honest read on what your project needs. Use the form below to get started.

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

How long does composite decking actually hold up compared to a wood deck?

A well-built capped composite deck typically outlasts a comparable wood deck by a wide margin because it isn't absorbing and releasing moisture the way wood does. The tradeoff is a higher upfront material cost. Actual lifespan still depends heavily on the substructure and hardware underneath the boards, not just the boards themselves.

What should I ask a contractor before hiring them for a composite deck near the water?

Ask what fastener grade they use (stainless or marine-coated hardware matters in salt air), whether they install joist tape, and how they handle ledger flashing where the deck meets the house. Ask to see how they'd space joists for composite specifically, since it's often tighter than for wood. A contractor who can't answer these clearly hasn't built many decks in a marine environment.

What's the real difference between capped and uncapped composite boards?

Capped composite has a protective outer layer bonded to the core, which gives it better resistance to moisture, staining, and fading. Uncapped composite is generally less expensive but can be more prone to moisture absorption at cut ends and surface wear over time. In a salt-air location like this, we typically recommend capped boards for that added protection.

Do hidden fastener systems work well with composite decking, or are visible screws better?

Hidden fastener (clip) systems are common with composite boards and give a cleaner surface with fewer places for water and debris to sit. They do require boards manufactured with a grooved edge to accept the clips, so the board profile and fastener system need to be matched correctly during planning, not decided board-by-board mid-install.

Does March Point's location make decking maintenance different from other parts of Skagit County?

Yes — being surrounded by bay water means more consistent salt exposure and onshore wind-driven rain than you'd see further inland in the Skagit Valley. That means a bit more frequent rinsing to clear salt film and closer attention to hardware for early corrosion, even though the composite boards themselves handle the moisture well.

Free, no-pressure estimate

Get expert help in Skagit County.

Have questions about your deck project? Our local crew serves Skagit County and all of Skagit County — call or request a free on-site estimate.

360-499-0573

More guides

Related resources

Premium Brands We Install

James HardieFiber Cement Siding
TimberTechComposite Decking
FiberonComposite Decking
Sherwin-WilliamsExterior Paint
AZEKTrim & Mouldings
IKORoofing
ProViaEntry Doors
MilgardWindows
AndersenWindows
GAFRoofing
CertainTeedRoofing
James HardieFiber Cement Siding
TimberTechComposite Decking
FiberonComposite Decking
Sherwin-WilliamsExterior Paint
AZEKTrim & Mouldings
IKORoofing
ProViaEntry Doors
MilgardWindows
AndersenWindows
GAFRoofing
CertainTeedRoofing